7/15/2006 San Francisco Maritime National Historical Park

 

San Francisco Maritime National Historical Park (舊金山航海國家歷史公園) 位於漁人碼頭的西邊，在Jefferson Street和Hyde Street兩條路的交插口這兒。當天我們五人騎單車遊玩舊金山，從這兒當出發點，一路往西騎，目標是要騎過金門大橋再回來。我們從Stanford開兩 台車，將四台腳踏車運上去，然後再與另一位朋友在舊金山碰面。其中一位高中同學遠從台灣來，沒有吃過加州這兒有名的In-N-Out漢堡，所以中午特地在 Jefferson Street讓他見識見識。不用說，第一次吃到的人，對那優質的漢堡肉都是讚不絕口。

這個歷史 公園，主要記載著舊金山的豐富的航海歷史文化。畢竟，舊金山靠著太平洋，是美國西岸重要的港口城市之一。公園分幾個區塊，除了一個研究用的圖書館比較遠以 外，剩下的幾個單位都集中在那一區，是徒步都可以到達的。分別為(一)遊客中心、(二)航海博物館、(三)Hyde Street碼頭以及歷史性的古船隻、(四)Aquatic Park，開放給人在海灘邊戲水。

The San Francisco Maritime National Historical Park (NHP) was first on our list in our biking trip of San Francisco this day.  Having transported our bikes up by car, we were ready to start after our lunch at the In-N-Out on Jefferson Street. 

The San Francisco Maritime NHP is a relatively little unknown historical in San Francisco just a few blocks west of Pier 39 and Fisherman's Wharf and a block away from the Ghirardelli Square.  There are a few units scattered around within walking distance which includes (1) a visitor center, (2)maritime museum, (3) Hyde Street Pier with its historic vessels, (4) the Aquatic Park which allows open swimming, and (5) a research library, which is more distant than the aforementioned units. 

(Visitor Center 

遊客中心)

第一站是遊客中心，就位於Hyde Street和Jefferson Street交插口的一座磚房。建於1908年，這棟建築後來陸續被舊金山還有美國政府列為古蹟，也於1978被國家公園管理局收購。1988年San Francisco Maritime NHP正式成立，它就擔任了遊客中心。裡面有許多的展示，陳述舊金山各個時期航海發展史。二十一世紀高科技協助下，更是有許多互動性的解說，讓遊客們更容 易了解不同族群的故事。本人跟同行的朋友，對於船和航海史並不特別有研究，也不算特別有興趣的，所以大致上看看介紹而已。遊客中心的展示中，還有一個巨大 的第一級Fresnel Lens(菲涅爾透鏡)，用於許多燈搭上。這種東西，相信大部份的人對它是不陌生的。另外，這兒還有一艘被撈起的小沉船，整修完後，也放在中心裡。


The Visitor Center is literally at the intersection of Hyde and Jefferson.  Many people have probably driven through here without knowing that there is a NPS unit here.  The visitor center contains many exhibits, including San Francisco's rich maritime heritage and the different groups of people who have come to represent this part of the city's history.  I am not a maritime or naval history buff or anywhere close to one, so I don't think I got any more than a quick glance on everything.  The museum does house a large 1st order Fresnel lens, which never ceases to wow visitors.

 

(First order Fresnel lens 

第一級(最大)的菲涅爾透鏡)

 

 (Shipwrecked boat 

沉船一艘)

航海博物館位於Polk Street和Beach Street的T型交插口，當初為公共澡堂，而且設計很新潮，做成油輪的樣子。二戰時被美國軍方佔領，不過1951年之後，改成了博物館至今，被NPS接 管之後仍是如此。當天博物館開始為期3年的整修，因此我們無緣去參觀。我們直接去參觀Hyde Street碼頭有歷史的船。要上這些船，是要收門票的，一人$5，一週內有效。當然，有國家公園卡與其同行的人，則可憑卡換取入場的貼紙。在Hyde Street碼頭停靠的六艘歷史船隻，分別為(一) Balclutha (帆船), (二) C. A. Thayer (縱帆船), (三) Eureka (渡船), (四) Alma (縱帆船), (五) Hercules (拖船) , and (六) Eppleton Hall (明輪拖船). 

The Maritime Museum used to be a bathhouse in the old days, but it has served as the museum since 1951 even after being acquired by the National Park Service.  It was closed when we were there to undergo extensive remodeling, but it has since opened in late 2009.  (wow, that's 3 years~~~ )  Our next stop was, therefore, the Hyde Street Pier and the historic vessels.  To board the historic vessels requires entrance fees.  Luckily, the National Park Pass covers the pass-holder and the accompanying people.   There are 6 historic vessels in the Hyde Street Pier area: (1) Balclutha (square rigged sailship), (2) C. A. Thayer (schooner), (3) Eureka (ferryboat), (4) Alma (schooner), (5) Hercules (steam tug) , and (6) Eppleton Hall (paddlewheel tug). 

(Maritime museum, courtesy of NPS)

 

(Steering wheel of the Balclutha

Balclutha的主舵)

  

(On the Eureka, with the Hercules and Balclutha in the background)

  

(Eureka engineer's platform

控制室，往下看可看到引擎的一部份)

  

(Antique cars in the Eureka to be displayed

古董車耶~~~ )

六艘船，我們只有時間上去看兩艘。第一艘Balclutha是運送貨物的帆船，1886造於蘇格蘭，航行的港口遍佈全世界， 如智利、澳洲、緬甸，舊金山、以及美國華盛頓州，載的貨物，也有羊毛，肥料，穀物，米，煤炭，木材等。光十三年內，Balcultha就有來回經過智利的 合恩角(Cape Horn)有十七次之多！中間它轉手於不同的商船公司，不過1933停駛之後，是拍攝1936年奧斯卡最佳影片「叛艦喋血記」(男主角為克拉克．蓋博飾 演)所用的船。1954年被博物館收購之後，便大幅整修回原本的面貌，至今一直停靠在Hyde Street碼頭。

第 二艘Eureka，是當初運送乘客往返舊金山和灣北邊Tiburon，Saulsalito的渡船。要記得，早期是沒有金門大橋的，所以要過灣都得靠船。 汽車發達之後，Eureka更是將下甲板改建，可以停放車子，使乘客的行動能力大增。1937年金門大橋蓋好後也意謂著渡船公司服務的結束。Eureka 接著被派去做火車站間的轉接服務，不過1957零件壞掉而正式退休，今天也整修後也停靠在碼頭。Eureka的船身全用木頭做的，也是木製渡船中最大的一 艘之一。這一天好像還有古董車的展示。我們沒有等他們開出，不過有先到下引板看見那些古老的車子們，如上面照片中美國郵局的車。

上 次站上有歷史的船，是2001在Boston的暑假，在U.S.S. Constitution，而且年代更是久遠(1794)。這些船雖然晚了100年，但是代表著另一個航海的時代。能夠到上面晃一圈，就算是幾分鐘，也算 是挺新奇的。性之旅結束後，大家準備開始單車之旅，向西行！

If memory serves correctly, we only boarded two of the six historic vessels, the Balclutha and the Eureka.  The Balclutha was a sailing ship originally made in Scotland that carried cargo all over the world, including Australia, Burma, Chile, and of course San Francisco.  Later, it was part of a salmon fish trade that would travel between California and Alaska.  Even later still, it would be used as an exhibition ship and even take part in the filming of the 1935 movie Mutiny on the Bounty (starring Clark Gable), which would go on to win the best picture.  It would be acquired by the Maritime Museum and restored to its original look.

The Eureka was a ferryboat that transported passengers across the San Francisco bay, long before the Golden Gate bridge was built.  It also had the capacity to carry vehicles in its lower deck.  On this day, many of the old antique vehicles were stored on the ship and were scheduled to be driven out and showcased.  We didn't wait until they drove the cars out, but we were able to catch a glimpse of some of those cars, like the US postal office one in the picture above.

Lastly, we would make a brief stop at Aquatic Park, before really biking west.  Luckily the weather at that moment from the park was beautiful, and one can look back at San Francisco to get a good view.  A nice little historical park here in San Francisco indeed...

Official Website:
San Francisco Maritime National Historical Park