7/2/06 Golden Gate National Recreation Area (NRA) Part 1 - Marin Headlands

 

(view of the Pacific)

 

(Golden Gate bridge in the far background)

(Point Bonita Lighthouse)

(Point Bonita Lighthouse at a distance, courtesy of the National Park Service)

(One of the bunkers on Marin Headlands)
 

Marin Headlands位於舊金山北邊，剛過金門大橋的西邊。要去參觀的朋友們，在過金門大橋之後就要找Alexander Ave的出口，下來之後左轉沿著指標走就會到了。Marin Headlands在我個人覺得，是要一覽整個灣區最佳的位置。對舊金山熟悉的朋友們都知道Twin Peaks和Coit Tower是適合看舊金山夜景的好去處，也知道在Treasure Island那邊往回看舊金山有另外一種風彩。不過，以Marin Headlands地勢之高，天氣好的時候(這就得看個人運氣)，可將整個舊金山盡收眼底。看金門大橋，也因為是從高處往下看，另一種角度得到的美感也不 同。而往東邊，可以鳥瞰Sausalito，看碼頭區停靠的一艘艘遊艇。最後，往西邊又能看到一望無際的太平洋，加上Marin Headlands原始較不被開發的海岬草地，跟繁榮的舊金山立刻顯出名顯的對比。

Golden Gate National Recreation Area(金門國家休憩區)是於1972年，在Richard Nixon(尼克森)總統最後同意下，簽署通過而成立的。National Park Service先將惡魔島Alcatraz和Fort Mason買下，接下來取得Marin Headlands，並在之後的三十年陸續收購私人土地和退役的美國運方單位，形成一個獨特的國家公園單位。分散在舊金山灣區各地，有風景性的，有各軍事 的，有歷史性的，也有更具觀光性質的景點，使得Golden Gate NRA在北卡-維及尼亞的Blueridge Parkway之後，成為每年參觀人數第二多的國家公園單位。

在 金門大橋還沒蓋之前的十九世紀末和二十世紀初，因為加州的淘金熱，使舊金山灣變成美國西部重要的港口城市。這也使得它的防禦，慢慢被列為重要的考量。 1890開始，Marin Headlands和舊金山的Presidio區，便慢慢蓋起碉堡與砲臺以防衛前來進攻的舊金山的船。二次世界大戰前後，Marin Headlands還蓋有核飛彈的基地，可隨時對準敵軍的飛機。隨著二戰的結束與這些科技上的落伍，槍隻，大砲一一被徹除。今天的遊客光顧這些地方的時 候，只能想像一下當初一度警戒狀態的Marin Headlands。現在的人到Marin Headlands的人，應該都是要暫時遠離都市的吵雜，享受一下短暫的寧靜吧。

Marin Headlands西南角有座燈塔，Point Bonita Lighthouse，是1855首先蓋的，也是美國西海岸第三座燈塔。由於之前提到，Marin Headlands地勢比較高，因此夜晚起的大霧，往往都比燈塔所在位置還要高。這也讓許多船，常常看不到原先燈塔的警告燈光，讓它變得形同虛設。這跟東 岸的許多高高的燈塔不同。西海岸時常遇到濃濃的大霧，迫使許多燈塔不能蓋得那麼高。

1872開始，一件浩大的工程將燈塔移到今天的所在地。其中值得被提起的事蹟為，(一)必須徒手在大石頭中開挖出一36公尺長的隧道。許多工人為當初建鐵路的那些中國移民的工人；(二)需通過最後一段一小山脊，才會到平坦的石塊上，建設燈塔和keeper的房間。完工後，有一吊橋將兩段寬廣的陸地接在一塊。這也是美國唯一需要走吊橋才到得了的燈塔。最後建設於1877年結束，而今天的燈塔和原先的位置，相差有200 feet之多~~~ 

由於燈塔目前仍在運作，歸美國海巡隊所管理，因此開放參觀的時間只有星期六、日、一的下午12:30-3:30。 停車場離燈塔要走個一英哩左右，所以決定來的朋友們，要事先安排好，不然會白跑一趟。如果有幸，還會有volunteer ranger，給予有那一帶的地質還有燈塔歷史的詳細解說和導覽。我們這一天遇到一位退休的自然科學老師，在他過於熱心的帶領下，1 mile 的路花了快一個小時才走完。同行的朋友們，許多後來都吃不消，自行脫隊。不過留到最後的人，都有吃到老先生發給大家，用以示範地震模型的oreo餅 干。(但這好像沒啥賣點)

This was one of the many day trips spent at the Golden Gate National Recreation Area.  Our first stop of the day was the Marin Headlands area.  The Golden Gate NRA comprises of many areas that span from just north of San Francisco down to Pacifica and other places in San Mateo County.  It is not one continuous piece of land but divided and scattered around the Bay Area.  With attractions like Alcatraz ("The Rock"), Muir Woods National Monument, and areas in the Presidio, it's no wonder that Golden Gate NRA is the second most-visited NPS unit.  Also, Golden Gate NRA is a heaven for passport stamp collectors, with almost two dozen stamps available in the area.  Not too bad eh?

Marin Headlands is just north of San Francisco, on the other side of the Golden Gate Bridge.  Being at a higher elevation, Marin Headlands provides gorgeous views of the San Francisco Bay Area and in my opinion, better views of the Golden Gate Bridge.  I understand people wouldn't want to pay the toll upon returning to San Francisco, but the view you get at Marin Headlands is just simply stunning.  Probably not necessarily worth the trip just by itself, coupled with another destination north of San Francisco will certainly be worth it.

Being on a higher elevation also meant it had its strategic military purposes for defending the San Francisco Bay from potential hostile ships.  Batteries and bunkers were built starting in the late 19th century and they were in use and fortified throughout the two World Wars.  Being apparent that there was no further necessary use for these guns and that they started to become outdated technology, the guns were removed and the sites decommissioned following the second World War.

Those interested in lighthouses should make the trip to Point Bonita Lighthouse.  Built in 1855, it's the third lighthouse built on the West Coast.  Originally built at an elevation that was too high, it had to be moved to another location because the notorious San Francisco fog would block the lighthouse signals and render it pretty much useless.  What followed was an impressive engineering feat to carve out a 36m tunnel by hand and move the lighthouse on a very tricky location, completed in 1877.  Also, did I mention a suspension bridge at the end of the trail just to get to it?  As the lighthouse is still currently active, operated by the United States Coast Guard, visiting hours are on Saturday, Sunday, and Monday 12:30pm- 3:30pm, so plan ahead.


Official Website:
Golden Gate National Recreation Area - Marin Headlands